Exploring the Iceland Highlands: Guide for Campervan Travelers

Here at Motorhome Iceland, we know there is a lot to explore in Iceland, from the beauty of the black sand beaches to the wild waterfalls; there is simply soooooo much to see. But for real explorers, all roads in Iceland ultimately lead to the heart of the island: the Iceland Highlands.

This remote region on the island is a place of such splendor that it’s simply not to be missed. However, this remote terrain can also be challenging to explore if you haven’t come prepared. In this article, we’ll tell you all about the Highlands and what to expect from your road trip, as well as how to prepare for what will be the adventure of a lifetime!

What are the Icelandic Highlands?

Exploring the Highlands, where the power of nature has sculpted the terrain over thousands of years, is an absolute must. Here’s what you need to know to plan your trip to this mountainous wonderland that’s mainly remained uninhabited:

Location and Landscape

The Highlands of Iceland are found in the center of the island. With its higher altitude and colder weather, the area is largely devoid of human life and permanent settlements, with only the occasional farm visible.

Geographically, it occupies a large part of Iceland, covering roughly 40,000 square kilometers (15,444 square miles), and is characterized by its incredible mountains, colossal glaciers, and high levels of volcanic activity. This is where you can view Iceland’s natural beauty and power in full force. Here, the Iceland Highlands are the central area marked in brown:

Although the Highlands remain largely uninhabited, you’ll encounter a seasonal network of mountain huts (e.g., Landmannalaugar) and the occasional farm. Capacity is limited, facilities are basic, and booking well in advance is strongly recommended during peak months.

Best Time to Visit the Highlands

The Highlands in Iceland are only accessible during certain times of the year due to the changing weather conditions of the seasons and the challenging road conditions. The F-roads, which allow you to explore the Highlands, are only open over the summer months, and you are only legally allowed to drive them with a 4x4.

Therefore, the best time to visit the Highlands is from mid-June to early September. This is when the weather is most pleasant and mild, and most of the F-roads are open, giving you the option to explore the area without any limitations.

Why Explore the Highlands in a 4x4 Campervan?

One of the most common questions we hear when it comes to Highland road tripping is, "Why a campervan, and why a 4x4, specifically?" There are many reasons for this, such as:

It Gives You Access to a Remote Destination

The only way you can travel the remote region of the Icelandic Highlands both legally and safely is via a 4x4. So, without a 4x4, there will be no exploring the area.

It Offers the Ultimate Freedom and Flexibility

As this area is mostly uninhabited, you will also want the freedom to explore it without worrying about finding the nearest hotel or hostel, or having your exploration dictated by pre-booked accommodations and strict check-in times. This means a 4x4 campervan can offer the ultimate freedom and flexibility.

Sleeping Under the Stars

Traveling the Icelandic Highlands allows you to fully disconnect from the world around you and completely immerse yourself in the incredible landscape. So, what could be better than to take advantage of our incredible campsites and sleep underneath the breathtaking starry skies?

If you’d like a roof over your head for a night or two, a few strategic bases inside the Highlands can simplify logistics. The Landmannalaugar Hut (managed by the Iceland Touring Association) offers bunk-style rooms and a shared kitchen near the area’s trailheads; the Highland Center Hrauneyjar (paved access, on-site meals) works brilliantly as a day-trip hub for Landmannalaugar; and Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort places you amid the geothermal mountains between Langjökull and Hofsjökull. Facilities are limited and advance reservations are essential in peak season.

It’s a Cost-effective Option

Not only is camping in your 4x4 campervan a great way to immerse yourself in the majestic landscape around you, but it’s also the most cost-effective way to road trip around the island, especially if you’ve also got yourself the Camping Card.

Driving in the Highlands: What You Need to Know

Adventure seekers will love driving in the Highlands, but you’ll need to come prepared if you plan on cruising the F-roads safely. Here’s what you need to know:

What are F-Roads and When Do They Open?

The F-roads in Iceland are our rough-and-tough mountain roads. These roads are unpaved, have steep inclines, are rocky, and feature various obstacles and river crossings. The F in F-roads stands for the Icelandic word "Fjallvegir," which roughly translates to mountain roads (“Fjall” = mountain and “vegir” = roads).

Traversing these roads in a 2WD is not only illegal but a terrible idea when it comes to your safety. You're also bound to end up with damage to the vehicle, and since you would’ve been driving the F-roads illegally, any insurance claim will be null and void.

Every year, the F-roads start opening from mid-May and close again from mid-September, with all the F-roads being open between June and August. However, these dates may vary slightly due to weather and road conditions, so always double-check before heading out. Keep an eye on the Vedur website to stay up to date with weather forecasts, and the Umferdin website is extremely reliable when it comes to up-to-date road conditions.

Even in summer, select F-roads can close temporarily after heavy rain, early snow, or high river levels. Always confirm real-time statuses on the sites above right before you commit to any detour or long stretch without services.

River Crossings and Safety Tips

River crossings are more common on the F-roads than you might think. So, if you are not familiar with how to safely cross rivers and streams, the following tips will make your trip a lot easier:

• Assess the situation: Before attempting to cross a river with your vehicle, exit the car and assess whether you can walk across safely. If you can safely walk the distance, then you can cross with your vehicle. However, if at any point the water seems too deep or the current too strong, it’s best to turn back (better safe than sorry, right?)
• Know your vehicle: You must understand and know the wading depth of your vehicle. This is because in cases where the water is deeper than your vehicle, you should not make any attempt to cross it. As a rule of thumb, the moment the water begins lapping at the top of your wheels, it’s time to abort the mission.
• Engage your 4x4’s low range: For maximum traction and control, engage the low range (second gear if you’re driving a manual 4x4).
• Take it slow and steady: It’s best to drive at a slow and consistent speed, rather than trying to move through the water too quickly (which can be tempting sometimes). This is because you want to avoid slipping on slippery rocks or creating a big splash, which could result in water going into the engine. Abrupt stops and changes in speed should also be avoided, as they could cause the vehicle to stall and leave you stranded.
• Never cross if unsure: If you are uncertain about crossing, then it is best to stay where you are and not test your luck. There is nothing shameful about playing it safe.
• Travel with others: F-roads and river crossings are best done with company. In the event of an emergency, vehicle breakdown, or accident, having others nearby who can assist and provide an extra layer of safety can be invaluable.
• Clearance matters: smaller 4×4s (e.g., Dacia Duster or Suzuki Jimny) often lack the ground clearance for deeper fords on popular F-roads. If water reaches the top of the wheels, abort the crossing. Remember that water damage isn’t covered by insurance and failed crossings can total a trip. See Insurance and Roadside Assistance below for coverage specifics. 

Still, as a rental company, we recommend avoiding crossing any rivers, as damages caused by water are not covered by any insurance. If you still want to do so, here's a great guide:

Fuel, GPS, and Road Conditions

• Fuel: In the Highlands, you should expect to go miles without ever finding gas stations. This is why you will want to fill up your tank before you set off onto the F-roads. Ideally, we also recommend carrying a can of fuel for emergencies, especially if you plan on taking a longer route.
• GPS: Don’t cheap out on your GPS. Tech gadgets and mobile services can also be unreliable (especially in our more remote areas), so ensure you download all of the maps you may need before you leave. We also recommend having a few hard-copy maps on hand (an additional backup can’t hurt).
• Road Conditions: Always check the road conditions before starting any trip in the Highlands. As mentioned, the Umferdin website is invaluable. With real-time information on all road conditions and closures, you can help plan your Iceland Highlands Itinerary and stay ahead of any potentially nasty surprises. The weather can also impact road conditions, so don’t forget the Vedur website when checking on road conditions.

Best Places to Visit in the Icelandic Highlands

We’ve covered the basics, such as “Where are the Highlands in Iceland?” and “What are the F-roads in the Highlands?” But now we move on to more exciting stuff: where you need to visit in the Icelandic Highlands. With incredible natural wonders and a campervan ready for exploration, the Highlands will not disappoint. These are a few must-visit spots we recommend you add to your Iceland Highlands Itinerary:

Landmannalaugar and the Laugavegur Trail

Landmannalaugar is also known as the "Pearl of the Highlands," an awe-inspiring multi-colored location with its rhyolite mountains, lava fields, and hot springs, all in one. This area is part of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve.

It has an altitude of 600 meters (1,970 feet), making it an ideal location for all of your hiking adventures. There are numerous trails to choose from, with some being more challenging, such as the Laugavegur trail, one of the most iconic long-distance hikes in Iceland.

Kerlingarfjöll and Hveradalir Geothermal Area

Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Range is known for its orange-colored mountains and is one of those locations that looks completely otherworldly. The primary draw to this part of the Highlands is the Hveradalir Geothermal Area.

This stunning landscape features bubbling mud pots, steaming hot springs, and fumaroles, creating an active geothermal wonderland that feels like it is part of a long-lost world. Just keep in mind that the Hveradalir Geothermal Area consists of the type of hot springs you can’t take a dip in.

Askja and Víti Crater

There are many different terms used to essentially describe this natural wonder in Iceland. Askja is actually an active volcano that stands 1514 meters high (although it looks more like a mountain than your stereotypical volcano), and is part of a much larger volcanic system in the area (remember, these volcanic systems resemble ant nests underground with “exits” popping up at the surface every few places).

Within the Askja caldera, you will find Viti Crater, roughly 300 meters in diameter, which is characterized by the bright-blue water that fills the 50 square kilometer crater. The water originates from groundwater seeping through due to the crater having collapsed below the water level, as well as glacial meltwater and rainwater that have been collected over time.  

With so many terms describing one spot, you’ll often find people mixing it up: “viti lake,” “viti caldera,” you name it, but just know that it all boils down to the same site. Due to the volcanic activity, the water in Viti Crater is heated, and, if you visit at the right time and under the perfect conditions, you’ll actually get the chance to take a dip.

Haifoss and Sigöldugljúfur Canyon

Haifoss is probably the most on-the-nose name for a waterfall you’ve ever come across. Haifoss translates to “high waterfall,” and it couldn’t be truer for this fall plunging down roughly 122 meters (400 feet) into the Fossa River below.

The Sigöldugljúfur Canyon is also known as “the Valley of Tears” due to the many cascading waterfalls found there. Ironically, Haifoss is not one of them. However, both the waterfall and the canyon are found in the Pjorsardalur Valley, making these two sites ideal to visit on the same day.

Aldeyjarfoss and Sprengisandur Route

Although not the tallest, Aldeyjarfoss Waterfall is considered one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. Surrounded by basalt columns that completely frame the water as it plummets down into the expansive pool of water below before traveling further down the Skjalfandafljot River, this waterfall is definitely worth a few snapshots.

The waterfall is also easily accessible, as it is conveniently located north of the Sprengisandur Route (Route F26), which is the F-road that runs through the heart of the Highlands.

It is considered one of the most remote and challenging routes in Iceland, but it is also one of the most rewarding, offering breathtaking landscapes and views. With careful planning and excellent navigation skills, your 4x4 camper will be able to take on this route without much trouble.

Thórsmörk and Mælifell (Advanced Routes)

Thórsmörk, often called "the Valley of Thor," is a paradise for those travelers looking for good hiking opportunities in Iceland. This nature reserve is nestled between three glaciers (Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull, and Tindfjallajökull), so it’s not surprising that Thórsmörk is such a green valley with all the water (meltwater as well as rainwater) flowing through it.

You’ll have your pick of multiple hiking trails in Thórsmörk. To cross into Thórsmörk, you will need to go through several deep river crossings, which means you will need a capable 4x4 camper that takes you there.

Mælifell is one of the most iconic volcanoes in the Icelandic Highlands, renowned for its symmetrical appearance. The black volcanic desert that surrounds the moss-covered volcano is truly iconic and something you do not want to miss. Similar to Haifoss and Sigöldugljúfur, these two spots are close enough to each other to visit in conjunction.

Camping in the Highlands

Having a campervan allows you to conveniently explore all that the Highlands of Iceland have to offer and to truly immerse yourself in the magnificent landscape. However, there are also many rules in place that you need to adhere to, which help protect the environment so future generations can also enjoy its splendor. Here’s what you need to know when going camping with your campervan in the Highlands:

Where to Camp Legally with a Campervan

After a couple of disastrous years of people and cars trampling our delicate ecosystem, new laws were enacted, generally prohibiting camping in the wild and on private land without the landowner's explicit permission. This is why you must always ensure you camp only in designated campsites in the Highlands.

These campsites generally provide you with all the basic facilities, such as showers, but double-check when traveling in your campervan, as some camping sites can be a bit more primitive or require an additional payment for an electricity hook-up.

You’ll also need to take waste into consideration, so keep an eye out for campsites with dumping sites. When planning your trip to Iceland, do proper research on the available campsites so you can enjoy your Highlands road trip without any camping hiccups.

Facilities, Rules, and Environmental Care

Highland campsites can be a bit more rustic than those found along the much more popular main route, the Ring Road. Still, you can expect to find running water (although it may not always be hot), toilets, and showers.

Some of them may offer picnic tables and cooking facilities. While there, it is important to remember that you are in one of the few semi-untouched natural regions of the island that needs to be protected at all costs, so please follow the rules below:

• Leave No Trace: No trash or other items should be left behind. Make sure to pack back everything that you arrived with. The Leave No Trace principle also refers to not creating your own pathways, damaging vegetation, and using your environment as an outdoor toilet.
• Respect Nature: In the Highlands, you’re a guest of Mother Nature, so behave accordingly. Walk only on marked paths and drive only on marked roads, and do not disturb the wildlife (they were here first, after all).
• Fire Safety: No open fires are allowed due to the risk of wildfires, which could completely obliterate the area. So, leave your bonfire days behind you when heading into the Highlands.
• Noise: Be mindful of other campers and strive to maintain the peace of the wilderness.
• Water Conservation: Water can be a luxury in remote areas such as the Highlands, so try to use it sparingly according to your needs. This is also why it’s always a good idea to bring some emergency water supplies with you when exploring our more remote regions.

Highland Campsites vs. Wild Camping

While you might feel tempted by the untouched beauty of the Highlands to sneak a bit of wild camping into your trip, we’ve already explained why this is not a good idea. Besides, not only are the Highland campsites there to protect you and our environment, they also have a few other perks up their sleeve.

These locations are often strategically situated close to popular hiking trails and attractions, allowing you to have some of the Highlands' natural wonders practically on your doorstep and making them easy to explore. All the additional amenities and facilities at official campsites will also make campervan life much more comfortable.

Highland Travel Tips for Campervan Drivers

Preparation is key to a safe and memorable Highland adventure. To help you in that process, we have gathered a few essential tips to help you along your trip:

Gear Checklist for Highland Adventures

Aside from your usual camping gear (if you want to go the combo route of campervan and traditional camping), there are some additional things we would recommend you bring along on your trip to the Highlands:

• A reliable GPS device, along with a few downloaded and hard-copy maps (just to be safe). Also, bring a compass since you never know when you might need one.
• A satellite phone or a personal locator beacon (PLB) in case of emergencies, since call service can be patchy in the Highlands. For many, these are not your typical road trip essentials, so consult with your rental agent if you’re unsure where to obtain them or how they work.
• Emergency Supplies. This includes a first-aid kit, extra blankets, properly stored additional water and food, a shovel, and headlamps.
• A Tire Repair Kit. This consists of a small tire repair kit (for patching punctures), an air compressor, and a spare tire.
• Recovery Gear. This includes your typical 4x4 outing items, such as a tow strap, shackles, and a high-lift jack for self-recovery. If you don’t know how to use these yet, we recommend watching a few videos and getting some training so that you are more prepared. Alternatively, these are also things you can discuss with your rental agent.
• Warm and Waterproof Clothing and hiking boots. The only way to combat Iceland’s unpredictable weather is to be prepared for anything at all times. That’s why dressing in layers is a great idea. This way, you’ll always be able to take something off or put something on depending on the conditions. Since you’ll be driving our rougher-and-tougher F-roads through the Highlands, which consists of many river crossings, and you’ll find plenty of wet and muddy hiking trails in the region along with powerful waterfalls that can leave you drenched within minutes, waterproof everything is a great idea.
• Waders. This is just some additional waterproofing for those river crossings.
• Gas Can. This will prove helpful for keeping an emergency gas supply when traveling through our remote regions.
• Portable Power Bank and chargers (if you find a solar option, even better). This ensures that all your devices have sufficient power to remain functional, especially in times of emergency. One thing many people don’t know about Iceland is that the colder temperatures actually cause batteries to run out much quicker than you may be used to back home.
• Insect Repellent. Iceland may not have mosquitoes, but we do have midges and other small insects. So, insect repellent is an absolute necessity around the wetlands and lakes during the summer months.

Insurance and Roadside Assistance

Before embarking on your journey, ensure you have sufficient insurance coverage for your 4x4 campervan adventure. Although your rental will include third-party liability insurance (mandatory in Iceland), you may want to consider additional insurance add-ons for this type of road trip.

Think about Gravel Insurance, Sand and Ash Protection, Tire Protection, and so forth. If you’re unsure about all the options available or what's relevant to your specific road trip route and itinerary, we suggest consulting with your rental agent.

Weather and Emergency Preparation

When traveling the Highlands, you need to keep the following in mind in case of an emergency:

• Save the Number 112: This is the national emergency number, which can be used for all emergency situations, including vehicle breakdowns, medical emergencies, accidents, and fires.
• Stay with Your Vehicle: Never wander too far from your vehicle, especially in remote locations like the Highlands. Not only can your vehicle act as a beacon for those searching for you, but it can also be a shelter for you.
• Always Inform Someone: Share your itinerary with someone who can contact authorities if they don’t hear back from you by your estimated return time. This can include family and friends back home, another contact on the island, or even your rental agent.
• Highland Patrol: The Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) includes a Highland patrol that is active in the summer months. So, in a sense, you’ll never be completely alone there in the mountains, and these guys can be highly efficient in giving a helping hand whenever you need it.

Map of the Icelandic Highlands 

While this guide will help you plan your Highland trip, there is nothing that beats a one-glance point of reference. This is why this Icelandic Highlands map gives you an overview of all the F-roads and key areas:

Is Visiting the Highlands Worth It? (Spoiler: Yes)

Without a doubt, visiting the Highlands will be one of the most unforgettable experiences of your life. While it requires planning and flexibility, the result of connecting with the Land of Fire and Ice in its most raw form is something that cannot be missed. We consider the Highlands to be the heart and soul of Iceland, and any true Icelandic adventure should include a visit to this region.

Final Thoughts: Start Your Highland Journey With a Campervan

Here at Motorhome Iceland, we’re passionate about helping you discover the real Iceland. With incredible geology, beautiful landscapes, and jaw-dropping natural wonders, a 4x4 campervan is the ideal way to explore the Highlands and the rest of the island. So what are you waiting for? Catch that flight, rent a 4x4 camper in Iceland, and hit the (F) road! The Icelandic Highlands are just waiting for you to explore them!